Chronology of the 1996 Yosemite 30/50 Miler
Notes compiled from Paul’s and Heber’s trail journals.
For every hike (miler or weekend) we keep own journals, as a way of reviewing each day and keeping a record of places or things that were good or bad, and as a way of fixing some of the memories more clearly in my mind.
Wednesday - July 24, 1996 Pack Inspection
Pack inspection at Paul’s. Paul made announcements and we started by taking one thing out of the packs at a time until all that was left was stuff not on the list. The remainder was dumped. I was pleased with how few things were forgotten. I think the pack list should be modified by putting things in categories - clothing, bathroom stuff, kitchen stuff, etc. This will encourage better packing. All of the packs weighed in light compared to my previous experience - food was lighter, clothing was lighter. We used Vern’s balance scale to weigh the packs and to even the load.
Pack weights in pounds:
Heber 52 (Leader)
Paul 57 (Leader)
Amanda 41 (Leader)
Laura 45 (Leader)
Karen 32
Molly 34
Sierra 32
Ann 35
Harmony 35
Emma 35
Kirstin 37
Jenny 33
Saturday - July 27, 1996 Frog Creek
It was only 7 miles, but it was a long day. The trail from Lake Eleanor as far as Miguel Meadow was once paved and has long since broken up under the influence of ice, and wet, and heavy tread. Still it feels a bit like hiking on a road. The level hike around the lake went quickly. Lunch at Miguel’s Meadow ranger station included horseflies and mosquitoes. Otherwise it is a nice place to stay. Spring water and flat spaces are available. It was a grind to Frog Creek and some of the scouts were getting tired. 7 miles and 1600 feet. The heat is a factor too, and we were actually grateful for the thin cloud cover, despite the humidity and the light sprinkles that forced us to set up shelters once we reached camp. Camp is a pleasant flat spot above Frog Creek, a little more distant from the water than would be our preference, but we can still hear the stream, and some of the scouts are singing, as I sit propped against a boulder to write. The singing is a bit of a surprise since most of the scouts on the outing have been reluctant to sing in past years. The sky is mottled gray overcast at 8:30 this evening. Again that is not what we expected, but probably we will have that to thank for a warmer night. It took all day, but at last on reaching this camp we have arrived--above the sparse, heat-blasted lower ridges--to home, the Sierra I have learned to love. Now it is time to leave the fading light to the bats flitting around the camp, and allow the last sounds of the day to soak in.
Sunday - July 28, 1996 Lake Vernon
Well last night was indeed surprising. The usual weather pattern in the Sierra is that clouds build as the moist valley air rises against the ridges during the day, and any rain that falls comes in short-lived torrents accompanied by the flash and swagger of lightning and thunder. Last night we had a constant light rain, barely enough to coat the bottom of the cups left out in the open. Everyone seems to have slept well and dry, so it was not a problem, just different. The group this year is not as strong or fit as in past years, and possibly not as game for the amount of effort that goes with the adventure.
Frog Creek to Vernon lake, ~6 miles and 1200 feet. Last nights light rain made for a cool start up the steepest grind of the day
Finally, though, I am home in the Sierra I know. I think Heber and Laura feel it too, and I saw Amanda light up with the new discovery of its challenging beauty as we took a day hike from camp near the shore of Lake Vernon, up one of the inlet streams, to see if there is a hikeable cross country route to our next camp. There is not. Not with this group of young women. For the strongest we might have tried an all day assault on the falls, but even so we could not be certain to make it all the way. That leaves us only the hike out the way we came into the cirque that holds Lake Vernon, and up Moraine Ridge. That will add nearly three miles to the route. Most of the group is too tired to take that on tomorrow, and will lay over here a day. Four of us will split off tomorrow and attempt the original plan, though not on the original route. We will join up again at Laurel Lake or perhaps in Jack Main Canyon in a couple of days.
Monday - July 29, 1996 Lower Jack Main Canyon (50 Miler)
Now we have separated 2 seniors and 2 leaders from the main group, who were too tired for another heavy day of hiking. I had a lot of trouble making myself let go of the rest of the group, even though I could not be leaving them in more capable hands. Today was a tough day, but with 2 senior scouts who know how to stay with a reasonable pace, we got to camp early, and with time for a bath and laundry. Camp is just 30 yards above a large pool in Falls Creek, with a small cascade tumbling into it at one end. We are on a flat, sandy wash which could accommodate a larger group. Surrounding us are dark granite walls rising several hundred feet above us. During dinner as I was watching some large clouds in the distance, a flutter of wings caught my eye. I ran for my binoculars in time to see the gray underside, the long slender wings, and the dark helmet of feathers--the first time I have been sure in my own identification of a peregrine falcon. After dinner, with the dish washing chore in progress, we were treated to a very subtly lovely sunset, as we watched the clouds to the east reflecting the day's last light. A good day for us. I hope the others have fared as well.
Monday - July 29, 1996 (30 Miler)
Paul, Amanda, Ann, & Harmony left for Jack Main Canyon at about 9:30 AM. Many of the rest of us will day hike to Bronagan Lake after lunch. I’ve been fishing. We have seen pan sized trout in shallow water but no luck so far.
Ranger Tim Melkz (sp) stopped by and checked permits, He also reminded us that if all of our food is bear bagged in one tree and if a bear gets it - we are out of food. We will use two trees tonight. He also suggested hanging noise makers with the bags to alert the sleeping if a bear goes for the food.
Gotta get up early to hike to Jack Main Canyon before the heat. Laura, Jenny, Molly, and I hiked to near the top of the water fall (sans water) from Branagon lake. We got a late start and just ran out of time.
The trail to the rangers cabin and then to the first stream was well marked and well used. Beyond that it was thready at best and mostly non-existent. We followed the stream down ‘till it widened, where we made our crossing. The stream was crystal clear with 6” to 8” golden trout and some fingerlings. We crashed through down snags and ferns until we reached the quite smooth granite falls.
We hiked right up the face of the falls until it got too steep, then we went to the side. This fall must be something to see in the spring. As we could tell from this mornings hike, we were within a few hundred feet of the top when we decided we were out of time and returned to camp (late). The rest has been said.
We chose to cross the stream closer to the water fall on the way back. It was narrower, deeper, and faster. Laura held the rope while I made the first crossing. As I neared the far side, she lost her footing at the same time I had to scramble for mine. I needed to go forward as she pulled me back. I stumbled and lost both aqua socks from my feet. I’ll miss them on the rest of this trip but not much of a loss otherwise, they were shot.
Molly commented on the way back “this was the best day”. It made me feel really good.
The girls that stayed in camp, Kirstin, Emma, Karen, and Sierra, did clothes, swam, sun bathed (Emma sun burned her feet) and said they had a good time.
BTW - The view was great from near the top of the falls.
Tuesday - July 30, 1996 Upper Jack Main Canyon (50 Miler)
Various forces have once again caused us to alter our plan.
Two extra miles added to today's hike, plus a heavily overgrown prospective cross-country route, have forced us to abandon the plan to camp at Otter Lake, and along with it our hopes for a 10,000 foot ascent. Perhaps from here we can reach 9000 feet in a morning hike. Plans for that can come after I have taken a few moments for writing.
So far, here are some impressions of the hike. The heat has been wearing, day and night. The first night brought that odd, steady drizzle. Now at 3:30 P.M. I am watching the more typical Sierra clouds building to the East. They are not likely to be a threat. There was a lot of bear scat at Lake Vernon, but none elsewhere so far. The Ranger at Vernon Lake, who has been very kind and personable, tells us that Laurel lake has had some reports of bears, so possibly on Thursday we will meet them. The Ranger is a good person--not pushy, knows the country, shares his knowledge in a way that makes it easy to use. I should write to the park about him. There has been a lot of foot trouble this year, and it has been less well tolerated than usual by some of the scouts. I wonder how Heber is doing with them. The first camp into Jack Main Canyon is not bad at all for bugs. Maybe Mahon Lake would be OK, but the rest of the canyon is full of mosquitoes. It's a beautiful, shallow, glacial valley; Falls Creek alternately meandering from one wall to the other of the canyon filling it with sediment, and tumbling in frothy cascades over steep boulder fields. The trail winds through wonderful glades and meadows that would tempt you to linger for hours admiring the lupine, paint brush, and tiger lilies, were it not for the insects. The USGS map is a little flaky about this area, which is wooded but must have just missed the density required for getting the green ink on their maps. They also missed the outflow from Otter Lake completely, and that is a considerably healthier stream than the one flowing from the spring at Miguel Meadow, and that stream is on the map. For future reference, we did find a stream just off the trail about half way up Moraine Ridge, but it was just a trickle and might not be reliable in a dry year. Well it's been a long hot 4 days, and no sign of letting up. Time all the same to make the most of this and enjoy the rushing music of Falls Creek.
This evening brings an unexpected present from the high Sierra: several bats putting on an aerobatics show were joined by a pair of night hawks. The bats dance and flutter like leaves caught in a whirlwind, and the night hawks slice through the air in graceful arcs, like sickles at harvest time. The contrast is striking: the creatures are so different and yet so thoroughly charming, each in their own way.
Tuesday - July 30, 1996 (30 Miler)
We hiked from Vernon to Jack Main Canyon. On the way, we could see from the ridge, west of Vernon, the Falls that Paul and Amanda hiked and the dry falls that the day hikers hiked yesterday.
Today we ALL got up shortly after 6 AM, ate, broke camp, and on the trail by 8:40 - not too bad. The trail junction was 2.1 + miles and 400’ up. We arrived there at 9:40 - 1 hour. From there we slowed quite a bit with frequent stops. We reached the summit (8.1K feet and 3 miles) at noon where we ate lunch. We were on the trail, headed down to the canyon at 1:10 PM not stopping much until we reached the stream at the bottom.
We were all out or almost out of water (planned) so we tanked up. About a mile up-stream the girls saw a beautiful wide spot and asked to go swimming - it was 2 PM - so we all did. Perfectly clear water between 3 and 5 feet deep with spots that looked like 12 feet deep - a water fall feeding it and a sand island in the middle. The water was cold, without fish. After getting out and dry, they convinced me that this is the place to stay - so we did. I had hiked about 1/2 mile up stream on the trail and then to the top of the highest rock (where horse campers left a mountain of garbage - more than we could possibly carry out) and looked for other spots to camp. I had passed a few and from what I could see - we had the best already. Everyone rested, hiked around, talked, etc. I had a good long talk with Laura about things, scouts, girls behavior, etc.
Today’s hike - about 6 miles, 1400’ 4 hrs 40 min, hot - 75 to 80 degrees, no water most of the way.
Wednesday - July 31, 1996 Lower Jack Main Canyon (30 & 50 Miler)
Lay-over day at Jack Main canyon. There is little
protection from the sun in the morning so Laura and I were up just after 6 AM but the girls were able to stay in their sacks until almost 8 AM. Laura and I planned a day hike up toward Wilma Lake (Wilmer on some maps). After breakfast and before we had outlined the plan, the scouts had voted with their feet and were headed for the pond in their swim suits. It was clear that hiking was not on the agenda in the morning.
I went fishing and got lots of strikes and caught a few. Most of the action was on cast masters and super-dupers, but most of the fish were caught using flys and a bubble - I didn’t try dry fly gear.
Ranger Tim Metzis (sp) stopped at our camp around 8:30 AM and said that Paul and gang were doing OK but he wasn’t clear as to where they were. Laura, Sierra, and Jenny started the day hike at about 1 PM, I went fishing, the rest swam and floated logs - they had great fun. I kept one fish.
As I returned to camp at about 4 PM, Laura and gang and Paul and gang just pulled in. We didn’t talk much about our days but Paul’s group had stayed in this same camp ground the night they were in the canyon.
Re-united! I (Paul) was very happy to encounter some of our scouts who were on a day hike, as we descended a rocky stair. All of my repressed concerns melted away in an instant.
Our day started with debate about whether we should start our day with a cross country day hike. Eventually all four of us made the ascent to the 9000 foot overlook of Otter Lake. That will be another in my long and growing list of hoped-for Sierra destinations. The peak also gave us great views of the further ridges and pinnacles, adding to my general intuition of how the upper valleys of the North Eastern Yosemite wilderness are connected. It was well worth the hike. We got back to camp in time for a quick lunch, and the long downhill haul back to camp lower in Jack Main Canyon. Heber's group found the same camp as we did on the way in, so we took a site not fifty yards east of his, also with its own pool for soothing our granite-pounded feet. Heber provided us with some of his famous trout cuisine--a great addition to dinner. We had a camp fire, and time to share our different experiences, and I got to hug both of my daughters. Now we are thinking of getting an early start to tomorrow, which will begin with the 600 foot ascent of the rocky stair that brought us here from the top of Moraine Ridge. It was a good day for all, with spirits high, an I am very happy to have the group all together again.
Thursday - August 1, 1996 Frog Creek
This was not a bad day, despite another change in plans. Five of us formed a lead group on the hike to Laurel Lake, through a wonderful meadow called Beehive, and settled in for lunch consisting of gorp and jerky near the shore of the lake.
We were nearly through eating when a small brown bear, possibly a cub recently rejected by its mother, approached us.
I stood, and the bear slowed but continued to approach at an angle. I yelled at it and clapped my hands, but it did not retreat. We tried banging pots together to make more racket, but that also failed to discourage the bear. I told everyone to get their gear together and not to leave any food behind. We took turns with the pot, and the bear paced nervously but did not retreat. It was less than fifty feet away, and edging nearer, but not obviously threatening. I considered throwing a rock or a pine cone at the bear, but since I was not certain that the mother wasn't somewhere nearby observing, I didn't try it. We tried falling back across the outlet stream of the lake, and settled once more, but the bear soon followed us. We then decided to leave the area and go back up the way we came to rejoin the rest of the group and decide on our course of action. We waited about a half mile back from where the bear had been, and when the rest of the group arrived the leaders held an impromptu conference. We decided to let the scouts choose whether we would stay at a camp further around Laurel Lake despite the bear, or continue to our first night's camp at Frog Creek, and hike out a day early from there. There was little doubt in our minds that the scouts would choose to avoid the bear, and in fact they were not the least eager to risk further encounters. Along the way to tonight's camp our sense of adventure and wilderness was kept high by the discovery of some large prints in a dusty stretch of the trail that could only be those of a large cat. Fortunately a mountain lion rarely approaches a human unless it has mistaken them for a deer. This is an unlikely mistake given the contrast between the springy bounce of a deer's gate and our lumbering strides under backpacks. This camp is noteworthy for its squadrons of dragon flies, welcome predators striving to make a meal of the mosquitoes which so doggedly seek us out. I am sitting in camp at Frog Creek, having just come from Scout's Own, which was less structured than in years past, but no less appropriate for this group of friends. Tomorrow we will hike out and spend the night at Cherry Lake camp, and then get an early start for home on Saturday. Now I am eager to turn off my light and get into my bag, so I can watch the stars until my eyes are too heavy to stay open.
It was quite a sight to see all four leaders sitting on rocks in the middle of Frog Creek with their boots off soaking their feet.
After dinner, Emma led a “Scouts Own” where she solicited bad and good comments about the trip.
Mosquitoes, stairs, DEET, and uphill led the bad list. Visions of Paul and me on our butts after breaking a rope with rock attached, in a bear bag tree, my fish dinner, day hikes, Jack Main camp site with ponds, swimming among lots of others were on the good list. Both Karen and Ann said that they liked being with their dad. Emma (with Kristen’s help) made friendship anklets for everyone and handed them out at the end of the Scouts Own.
Friday - August 2, 1996 Cherry Lake
We are out of the wilderness. It was an uneventful hike out on a day that started with a great deal of smoke filling the Lake Eleanor basin below us. Once the smoke reached our level, it clearly had the smell of wood burning. I had visions (which I kept to myself and the other leaders) of being cut off by forest fire. Fortunately there was no sign of the fire along our route, and the smoke had mostly dissipated by the time we reached the lake. It was a fairly quick out along a trail that was less interesting than most I have hiked in the Sierra. I would love to get back to Jack Main Canyon, and to visit Otter Lake along the way, but I would choose a different route, either a Sierra traverse, or a possibly loop from the East side. Frog Creek is quite nice, but a day to hike in to there an a day to hike back out and back is a high price. I will be happy next year to start at a higher elevation. We had the usual race to the cars today, won by Emma, who met a lady ranger at the trail head. I think the ranger was quite surprised to see a high school girl hiking out of the woods apparently alone. Tonight was a fine opportunity for some quiet fishing, uninterrupted by the bother of actually cathing anything. For me, the calming routine of casting and retrieving into the fading light brought a fitting closure to another well spent week in the high country.
Saturday - August 3, 1996 Cherry Lake
We packed up, cleaned camp and left for the showers at Pine Mountain Lake campground, outside of Groveland. They charged the 9 of us (three continued on home) $8 for the use of the showers - a bargain. Then to Groveland for a soda and on to Oakdale for Mt. Mike’s Pizza and video games. Everyone is happy to be on the way home.