1997 JOHN MUIR WILDERNESS 50 MILER THE TRIP VIEWED THROUGH THE EYES OF
NICOLE
JULY 18-FRIDAY - DAY ZERO
Now who would have thought that a nice five hour car drive could be decent?
No, I'm not being sarcastic this time. Except for a bit of car sickness
in Mr. Slusser's car, not much happened. A nice scenic lunch
in Los Banos. Ha Ha Ha.
Our last real
dinner of spaghetti,
almost normal toilet and
non-iodized water
for the week.
There were nice rocks to climb on around our campsite.
As yet the full moon has not brought out a single solitary werewolf.
We're starting a 50 mile hike tomorrow?!
JULY 19-SATURDAY - DAY ONE - DESTINATION: DUCK LAKE
The weather was nice to start our hike. Although it was only a four
mile day there was plenty of elevation to start the breathing. Not
much happened until lunch when a piece of beef jerky took a tooth of Laura's
out. Fortunately it was dead, so an immediate turn around wasn't
needed.
You could tell that this was a horse camp because there was a pot and
cane of soup left behind in one of the fire pits. The pot had a hole
in it.
Duck Lake was nicer than the leaders had expected. We got in
early enough for Heber, Paul, and Suzanne to go fishing, for Molly, Shannon,
and myself to go swimming, and for Ann and Harmony to take a nap.
I don't know what Laura was doing.
Rumor has it that Heber almost fell in the lake, but I didn't get a
confirmation on that.
In a search for firewood I stumbled across the skeletonized remains
of a cow. Note: Change the name of Duck Lake to Dead Skeletonized
Cow Lake. I saw no ducks.
It's nice how chemical reactions can bring people together. I
mean fire, for those sick-minded individuals out there. A spirited
discussion about this-and-that took place.
We started the day with four adults with full sets of teeth and ended
the day with five adults minus one tooth. HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ANN ON
HER 18TH! Thank you Paul for packing in the brownies, they were wonderful.
Another beautiful moon with no werewolves as yet.
JULY 20-SUNDAY - DAY TWO - DESTINATION: SCEPTER LAKE
The cross-country out of Dead Skeletonized Cow Lake wasn't nearly as hard
or time consuming as I had expected, but then this is my first miler.
At the top of the pass a debate started on what a rock formation looked
like. To me it looked like an amazon lying down with her head tilted
back.
On another note; I think that they should change the name of Duck Lake
to Dead Skeletonized Cow Lake and write the new name on all the maps.
We had lunch after going up Chuck Pass . Molly said at the campfire
that we should have cheese, pickles, and chocolate for lunch. I don't
think that would be a good idea after going up Chuck Pass. (Up
Chuck Pass! Ha Ha Ha! Poor Harmony was already looking a little pale,
but she did look better later.
We made good time to the camp, despite some slow going at the end.
I think the constant mosquitoes and flies may have been a big part in making
this seven mile day go so fast. We had plenty of time to chill when
we got in.
Arrgh, some horse campers left a boot behind in a still smoldering
fire.
Scepter lake was only waist deep. I believe that another name
change should take place. Scepter to Septic.
The dark clouds that loomed over the hills kept off our camp, we didn't
even have to set up shelters. Although Mr. Slusser kept saying
he would like some thunder and lightning.
JULY 21-MONDAY - DAY THREE - DESTINATION: PEARL LAKE (THAT WAS WHERE WE
WERE SUPPOSED TO GO)
Our hike up Scepter Pass was rewarded with a beautiful view supposedly
it is the easiest pass to go up. I cannot say that going down was
exactly my cup of tea. We think there might have been a trail going
down, but we're not supposed to tell the horses that, they wouldn't like
to hear the news. All I can say on the horse issue is I wouldn't
want to try to bring them back there.
Even though we left later than hoped, we needn't have worried about
the time. Our group makes pretty amazing time.
At lunch a solitary man walked through our camp, didn't say a word,
and speeded up so he could get out of our sight as fast as possible.
Paul and Heber didn't even see him. Lunch was nasty, well at least
the dried apples were. I don't think it helped that I kept telling
everyone that they looked like the ears were cut off our fetal pig when
we were dissecting the brain. The peanut butter was WONDERFUL! You
didn't even need the apples to eat it.
Some things about the hike from there into Portal Lake
Good things:
the wildflowers were beautiful
Bad things:
the mosquitoes weren't as bad as going into Septic, er Scepter
Lake.
it was muddy
all uphill, fairly steep too
in the mud
the sound of a scout gagging on a mosquito was fairly common
there were enough mosquitoes
uphill in the mud, breathing bugs
Mr. Slusser was granted his wish for rain. At least the rain gods
decided to wait until we were within a few hundred yards of camp before
unleashing their fury. It was cool seeing lightning strike so close
to where we were. At least the rain made all the bugs go away.
However, sitting crowded, cold, and damp underneath a shelter is no way
to spend the afternoon. I mean we weren't cold just because we were
damp, a hundred yards away from the camp there was snow on the ground.
Which Molly felt a need to go play in even before the rain had stopped.
Mr. Slusser obliged her wishes and went with her.
Once the rain stopped we walked the final yards into the proper camp
and Mr. Slusser started a fire. Mind you it took a while, but
it did sure feel nice when it was going.
Had it not started raining, we probably would have made it into Pearl
Lake early. At that, we didn't know what the clouds were going to
do next. We set camp at Portal Lake. I am told that we are
less than a mile out.
I have to say that Portal Lake is nice. There is a waterfall
right next to our camp. It's flowing down from Cathedral Lake which
is at the top of a vertical rock face from where our camp is. There
are plenty of rocks to squat behind, but precious little dirt to dig a
hole in.
The feeling around camp is of exhaustion.
The leaders decided it was our turn to put the bear bags up.
It took forever to get one up. We summoned "the force" to aid in
our efforts. I believe that Molly prayed to the tree.
The clouds made for a beautiful sunset.
Molly and I would have howled at the moon, but it was hiding.
JULY 22-TUESDAY - DAYFOUR - DESTINATlON: UNKNOWN
A sacrifice must be made.
At four this morning we were awaken by our leaders because we had to
make shelters because it was raining. It is fortunate that last night
all six girls had decided to sleep near each other instead of in two groups
like we had been. This made the shelter building much easier.
I thank our leaders for doing most of the work. Letting themselves
get wet so we could stay dry. They had our shelter up in less than
ten minutes. Of course the rain started just as I was finally falling
into a good deep sleep. Do you think that it was any kind of forewarning
when I woke up on Monday with "It's the End of the World as We Know It"
stuck in my head? Nah.
Suzanne said that Mr. Slusser must have dreamed about rain last
night. It was decided that today shall be our layover day.
It's really cheesy that it's cold and wet. If the sun had decided
to show her face we might have been able to swim and wash the filth off
of everything.
Well that is not to say that people didn't try. After Molly and
Harmony got up at eleven they decided that they were going to wash their
hair. Shannon joined in on the madness . Laura washed her clothes.
Suzanne, Ann, and I watched them. We were doing our best to stay
warm with all our clothes on, never mind getting our heads wet. The
men folk went fishing.
We met the marmots. Apparently they were not getting enough cotton
in their diets so they felt the need to eat Mr. Slusser's bandannas.
Laura scared, or tried to scare them off. At least she got the bandannas
back, albeit that they were both marmotized. Mr. Slusser, in his
true fashion decided that he would just have to hem them when he got home.
It's not like bandannas are an expensive item. Oh well.
In the afternoon Heber, Paul, Ann, Molly, and Shannon went on a day
hike to see what Pearl Lake looked like while everyone else stayed nice
and toasty in their sleeping bags. Although, I am told, Pearl Lake
was a nicer lake for layover day activities, it was not as well suited
for camping purposes.
The sunset almost made up for the grayness of the day. It was
Benadrl colored. The clouds looked as if they had been set on fire
in fluorescent shades of orange, pink, red, and purple. For a minute
the rocks glowed red. You could never capture the true intensity
of what that sunset was on film. To really understand the feeling
you'd have to have seen the rain all day, the darkness of the hills, not
even mentioning what all your other senses were feeling.
Decisions on what is to be done tomorrow will depend on the moods of
the weather gods. It looks like it might clear, really.
JULY 23-WEDNESDAY - DAY FIVE - DESTINATION: UNKNOWN-
I O'CLOCK'S DESTINATION: HALF MOON LAKE
Ahh, the joys of waking up at 7:30 to our ever so friendly leaders telling
us that the clouds are only fog, even though it happens to be raining quite
significantly. Fun, fun, fun. Oh, the joys of getting eight
people, two of them tall men, into an emergency shelter that is smaller
than some peoples walk-in closets, except this one is about three feet
high and staying there for three hours. Laura was smart and stayed
in her own shelter where she was undoubtedly more comfortable. There
was not much to do but, sit, stare, sleep, and try to stay warm.
The fact that we were all so close to each other greatly helped in the
staying warm. Suzanne has now forbidden me from telling her any more
stories.
There was an all too brief interlude where it wasn't raining, but it
the rain soon sent us back diving for cover.
I must say it is no fun dropping your drawers in the rain. In
fact it is much worse when you were already out using a bush and it does
start raining.
This time all nine of us were forced under the same shelter.
Around one p.m. the rain stopped so we decided to head out while
the going was still good. We broke a layover camp in a record half-hour
time. Since the weather was still remaining untrustworthy we had
to resort to a backup plan of hiking to Half Moon Lake rather than going
on our planned route. We were cheated out of our hike up Blackcap
Mountain and we didn't get to camp at Guest Lake. However I can't
say that I would have wanted go five miles cross country or down a level
two hike in the rain or the fog.
It's amazing what our group does when we have the motivation.
Like finding alternate stream crossings than what the leaders were going
to try to have us do. The hike down from Portal was beautiful.
The bugs had not yet returned in full force and I was quite literally up
to my armpits in wildflowers. Even the mud wasn't so bad going back
down. The only reason my socks got wet, excepting sweat, was when
the mud went over the top of my boot and down my ankle. I was surprised
at the number of people going back up to Portal as we were leaving.
It was definitely fortunate that we decided to leave today. Portal
was a small campsite.
That motivation had me arriving at Half Moon Lake at 5:30. It
was a seven mile hike. We left at one p.m. When I arrived I
was practically asleep on my feet. Camp and dinner were made in remarkable
time. We set up shelters just in case. It was nice that the
weather smiled on the day's hike. There was no place between Portal
and Half Moon Lake that we could have camped. It was an all or nothing
decision to go. We got lucky.
Half Moon Lake was beautiful. The water was very warm, it would
have been lovely to go swimming. I wish we could have had our layover
day here.
Due to the rain, all the wood that was gathered for the fire was damp.
I did get within thirty feet of a doe when I started getting wood.
Anyway getting the fire started was a real problem. Since none of
us were having our periods at the time, we decided to start burning our
supplies. Oh yes, Paul and Heber were out fishing so it was just
us women folk with our responsible leader, Laura. The bags to pack
out our stuff burned better than the tampons. Definitely a female
bonding experience. It was decided that all campers should carry
supplies. A unisex and sanitary fire was what we had. When
the men came back they were wary, they had heard our laughter and were
glad that they had been out of camp. We joked about how they should
warm their hands over the fire, both of them stood away with their hands
in their pockets. Suzanne bet $5 that they knew what we had done,
so I bet another $5 that they wouldn't say it out loud.
Both Molly and Ann had had bad feelings about bears in this campsite.
It was definitely worth it to watch the leaders put the bear bags up in
the tree. When we went to use the bathroom Molly was refusing to
be the first one to dig a hole. She also insisted on sleeping in
the middle of the shelter. It didn't help that at dinner Molly had
spilled a cup of chicken soup on her lap when she was trying to swat a
mosquito.
Molly also provided the amusement of the night because after we had
all gotten in our bags Molly fell asleep and started talking. She
told us how she was going to make her invisible cow George into a vampire,
about gluing her shoe to the top of the Empire State building, and how
she couldn't have the Boston Tea Party because the water wouldn't boil.
JULY 24-THURSDAY - DAY SIX - DESTINATION: WOODCHUCK LAKE
Man, it was cold when we woke up. It was decided that we would hike
to Woodchuck Lake and not spend another layover at Half Moon Lake.
This was the decision because of the lateness in the week, it was cold,
and the dual facts of the tooth, or lack of, that Laura had lost was beginning
to bother her, and she believed that she was also getting a sinus infection.
I was a bit sad to leave Half Moon Lake behind. In my opinion, it
was the nicest place we had camped.
The hike to Woodchuck Lake was only supposed to have been five miles
but we ended up missing our turn and taking a well used but unmarked trail.
Even though Heber and Paul hadn't agreed on where we were, we pressed on
which is why we ended up so far off trail. I think we ended up nearly
a mile off where we wanted to be before we got out the Global Positioning
System. Suzanne found a new toy with buttons. It's funny that
when we retraced our steps we found the trail exactly where it was supposed
to be with a big spray painted rock showing exactly which way to go.
All nine of us walked by it without noticing because we all assumed we
were on the right trail because it was so well used. After getting
on the right trail there were no more problems with the hike. You
could tell as we were coming into Woodchuck Lake that it was a more used
campground than Half Moon Lake. It was obvious we were getting back
to civilization. The thought of home seemed nice although seeing
people again wasn't.
Given that a normal, no really, a normal, Sierra thundershower was
moving in on our heels all of us girls got our shelter up and in our bags
in quick time. Although it wasn't really raining it was just so ding-clang
cold, sleeping bags were just the best place to be. No one wanted
to go with me to collect fire wood, as Mr. Slusser suggested before
it got wet. You know, it's funny, don't mess around with female rituals
because they are powerful. Five out of six of us got our periods,
up from zero yesterday. I managed to convince Suzanne to get out
of her sleeping bag to help me by unzipping it from the bottom.
Later when we were all in our bags Heber came by and said that a fire
would be nice. It turns out that he had fallen in the lake.
He stepped on a slippery log that Paul had walked across, did a dance and
fell in. Poor Heber didn't even catch a fish for himself.
Now I must say something about Sierra Seats because they are something
to talk about. We didn't discover the one at Half Moon Lake until
this morning and I got lost looking for the one at Woodchuck Lake.
What exactly is a Sierra Seat? Think of those pit toilets at Big Basin.
It's like one of those without walls. At Half Moon Lake it was kind
of behind some trees, but not really. At Woodchuck Lake it was a
throne behind some rocks . An open air pit toilet, that, my friend,
is what a Sierra Seat is. At least it beats squatting.
It was 45°F when we were making dinner. To say the least
it felt good to sit around the fire. Heber cooked the fish that Paul
caught before we had Scouts Own. Harmony and Ann planned it because
this is their last outing as scouts in the troop. They had an open
forum where we just talked about how we felt during the outing. Harmony
passed Elmo, who has been on three fifties, onto Molly to be brought on
further outings so the tradition can continue.
I think one of the nicest parts of the outing was how together our
group was. There were no cliques of girls pestering each other.
Our group really was a group. The fires definitely reinforced group
unity. It's hard to describe the feeling.
The stars were out in full splendor. Heber explained to Molly
that shooting stars are about fist-sized pieces of space debris burning
up in our atmosphere, so are we as individuals in a sense. We are
so small, yet we have the potential to make such a large impression.
The majesty of the Sierras also helps to reinforce just how small we are.
The last time we were at Woodchuck Lake our troop burned around fifty pounds
of trash and packed out around forty more pounds. This year with
the exception of a shovel head that Molly packed out there were only a
few pounds of trash. Small things can make big impressions.
JULY 25-FRIDAY - DAYSEVEN - DESTINATION: THE CARS!
Is it a bad sign when you pull your glasses out of your boot and they have
ice on them? It explains why we were all practically in each other's sleeping
bags last night trying to stay warm. I don't think I even want to
know how cold it got last night.
All our camp duties were done and we were on the trail by 8:30.
We drop 3200 feet today and gain 200 over the course of ten miles.
It's funny, on our way down we saw a group of out of shape men struggling
up the hill with only fishing poles and guns. They had the nerve
to make the comment that we were carrying the kitchen sink with us.
Then we came across two horses and six mules. We may have had the
kitchen sink but they had the whole goddamn house! Oooh, I dislike horse
packers. The woman leading the group of horses was just plain rude.
Paul had some bones to pick with them too. I'm glad we left Woodchuck
Lake, as nice as it was. That's where this group was going.
Ahh, un-civilization.
Heber managed to fall in while we were crossing a stream. He
was unhurt, just wet.
Just as we were getting ready to pack up from lunch a man on his horse
came by and started chatting. He arrived in California in 1936 and had
been running cattle in the Sierras ever since. Horsemen like him
are cool. The last of the real cowboys. He deserves a horse.
The stories he told were interesting and it was nice to hear different
perspectives on the changing wilderness environment.
THE CARS!!! We got to the cars around
2:30. We would have gotten there sooner, but lunch broke the hour
mark. Our leaders can be evil. They blackmailed us! No showers
until before pictures were taken. It felt heavenly to get clean after
not being able to bathe for a week.
The pizza was even better. The nine of us completely devoured
four pizzas entirely. It was weird in the pizza parlor, everyone
was white and a few people were carrying sidearms.
It's strange. I'm glad to go home, but we just got here yesterday,
right?